Videos: Changing timing belt in a Starlet EP91

Found this interresting videos from a guy (Peter Anderson) fixing with his Starlets. Interesting stuff if you like cars. Peter speaks good about Toyota and how ingeniously they did these cars. He thinks they are very easy to work on.

BUT if you are looking for timing belt instructions I've made a newer better post. Check it out here.



Power Steering and Timing belt change


Cleaning chairs, removing the fabric.

Restoring an other Toyota Starlet Ep91 with a donor.


Another link showing timing belt change on the 4e series.

http://mearcatmini.blogspot.se/2010/07/4e-timing-belt-change.html


Easy way to remove a stubborn crankshaft pulley bolt



"Note that the pulley has four holes. Two of the holes are threaded and the other two holes are not. I had to rotate the crank shaft (via the pulley bolt) to gain access to the threaded holes in order to use the club."
Source: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/103-3rd-4th-generation-1992-1996-1997-2001/264425-diy-gen3-timing-belt-waterpump-oil-seal-change-part-1-a.html

Remove front bumper on Starlet

I got an email, asking about the front bumper and headlight. If you need to remove the front bumper in order to remove passenger headlight. Thought I could publish a picture of it.

"Glad, you still have the Starlet and that the Oil change worked for you. I´m very pleased with mine. No problems, just runs fine.
I really don't know about the headlight. But I have removed the front bumper, and it was not a big thing. Other cars I have removed the bumper to get the headlight removed, but don't know if it could be done with it in place on the Starlet..
Pretty easy to remove the bumper.. Isn't it some differences between Glanza headlight and a regular Starlet? Perhaps that is why you get different information from the UK-site and the Australian?"

Here are the screws you need to remove:

Here are the screws you need to remove, to get the Front bumper from the car.

Tail light

Good luck! :-)

Rust on Starlets?

Rust is not that very common fortunately.

But I managed to find one that had some clearly noticeable rust.

Boot cover, pretty common, must have been something wrong from the start.

Rust on: Front lower beam, Doors, and rear wheelhouse

I have also heard that the upperside (topside?) of the fuel-tank is common to rust. You cant normally see this.

Rear brakelines I think is common. The inspector took a knife to try to find on my car, he did not find any rust. #Rust treatment

Does a Thule Micra K11 roofrack fit on the Starlet?

No, it does not fit! Unfortunately.


A long time ago I had a Nissan Micra year 2000, and I have kept the roof-rack for that car, a Thule Rapid System. Hoping that it would fit my next car.. I always like Thule, they are from Sweden and make great roof racks. Expensive though.

This is what the Nissan Micra K11 kit is made of:

Rapid System 750 Foot Pack

KIT 1108 that fit Nissan Micra 3/5 door, 93-

The bar is:
Thule SquareBar 760, max load 100 kg, but the rest only good for 75 kg. The length is 108 cm which is to short. The Starlet needs the 761 serie, that is 120 cm.

Here are some pictures of the kit:

Here you see the Thule 760 squarebar, it rapid system 750 footpack, and the 1108 kit for the door.

Thule kit 1108, these thing is for the 3 door variant, I had the 5-door variant.

Parts that is needed, here you see the Thule 761 version that is for the Toyota Starlet EP91

Close up on the square bar Thule 760, which is 108 cm in length, to short for the Starlet.

This roof rack is for sale. If you buy the bars only on Mekonomen they cost 889 Swedish crones. Give me a decent offer and it´s yours. I´m also interested in changing the Thule squarebar 760 to an 761. Or if you have a Thule Toyota Starlet kit I can happily switch.


My Toyota Starlet 96- 3 door need:

Thule 1041 Rapid Fitting Kit  (399 kr on Mekonomen here i Sweden)

Thule SquareBar 761  = 120 cm (they cost 449 per unit, that is 889 for two)

And I think the 3-door version needs an:

SRA 774 (SRA = Short Roof Adaptor )

Foot Pack 750 or 754, I have the older 750 style. (dont need to buy)

There is nothing to attach the rear bar else, I guess?



Any opions?

Officiella tjänstevikten och bilskatten är för hög mot verkligheten..

Hej,
Tänkte uppdatera er på hur det går med bilskatten. Idag har jag mailat skatteverket och hoppas på att dom kan hjälpa mig.

Idag har jag äntligen tagit mig till bilprovningen för att dels väga bilen och även besikta bilen. Mycket riktigt väger min bil mindre än dom officiella siffrorna som transportstyrelsen har. Det är inte transportstyrelsens fel då Toyota uppenbarligen rapporterat fel siffror.. Jag har kontaktat Toyotas generalagent i Sverige och har tyvärr blivit avfärdad. Se tidigare inlägg här och här.

Följande gäller för min bil och vid vägningstillfället:

Alla vätskor är som dom ska. Olja, bromsolja, hydralolja till koppling, växelådsolja, allt är korrekt ifyllt. korrekt. Spolarvätskan uppfylld till max. Bilen fulltankad och körd en mil sedan tankning.

I övrigt har bilen rostskyddats dels av rostskyddsföretag (Börjes Rostskydd, bästa sorten, dvs allt är rostskyddsbehandlat), samt även en exta gång av mig med både linolja och bitiumbaserad rostskyddsmassa. Väger säkert 6-10 kilo bara detta.

Bilen har såklart all inredning, säten och reservhjul precis som standard. Ingenting urplockat för att ge fina siffror! Snarare har det tillkommit vikter sedan den var ny.

Har dessutom dragit extra tjocka strömkablar för ett slutsteg i bilen. Väger uppskattningsvis några extra kilon.

Handsfacket var fullt av bråte och "bra att ha saker". Extra bagagerumsmatta.

Ryggsäck med diverse prylar låg i bilen vid fototillfället. Innehöll bland annat verktyg utifall något snabbt behövdes fixas i samband med bilbesiktning som gjordes strax efter vägning.

Förarsätet även belagd med överdragsskydd.

Så en hel del extravikt förutom om den står som rent med tjänstevikt.

Ändå väger bilen 40 kilo mindre inkl mig som förare (väger 78-80 kg) än dom officiella siffrorna (1020 kg).

Utan mig sittandes i bilen väger bilen 900 kg.

Med mig sittandes i bilen visade mättavlan 980 kg.

Testade att ställa bilen på olika ställen på vågen, men det gav ingen skillnad på mätvärde. Fick samma värde var jag än stod med bilen på plattan.

Följande är bildbevis tagna några minuter innan bilbesiktning. Datum 2014-08-01. Det går att kolla att mätarställning på bilen matchar fotot med besiktningsprotokoll. dvs bevis på att vägning och bilprovning skedde vid samma tillfälle.

Här syns vågplattan. Spelade ingen var jag stod på denna platta. Vägningen visade samma resultat ändå. Som synes ger mätvärdet ett resultat av 900 kg. Bilen fulltankad och alla vätskor som dom ska, spolvätskan maxfylld. All inredning på plats, reservhjul på plats etc. Plus lite extra prylar som ligger och skräpar och knappast gör att bilen väger mindre. :) 

Ytterligare en bild med samma resultat, 900 kg. Ingen sitter i bilen.

Här har jag hoppat in i bilen. Jag väger runt 78-80 kg. Vågen visar nu 980 kg. 40 kg mindre än dom officiella som transportsstyrelsen har. Jag får alltså betala mer bilskatt än jag borde eftersom tjänstevikt är med i beräkning av fordonsskatt så vitt jag förstår. Jag börjar tyvärr även ifrågasätta om dom andra siffrorna som Toyota lämnat  verkligen stämmer..

Här syns att bilen är fulltankad. Den står här på vågen. Bilen har körts 10 kilometer sedan fulltankning. Mätarställning 74687 km stämmer med bilprovningen besiktningsprotokoll som gjordes ca 5 minuter efter att denna bild togs. Datum 2014-08-01

Besiktningsprotokoll: Här syns vägmätarställning som bekräftar bilden ovan. 

Givetvis ställer jag upp på en ny oberonede mätning om skatteverket och transportstyrelsen inte tror på mina bilder.

Connecting car stereo in Toyota Starlet

So I was going to swap stereo between my two cars. This is some pictures of it.

This is the Kia Pride stereo outlet. Everything is ISO ready. Very easy to disconnect the stereo.
I also removed the steel cage.

Here you see the ISO-standard. Everything except the antenna goes to this contact.

However on the Starlet, it was not the original. Some "moron" had tampered with the cables, and also cut cables and so on..  I had to find the ignition cable (grey) and then found some permanent 12v plus so the stereo remembers the volume and tracknumber when turning the ignition of. The yellow read one is now connected permanently to 12v +. And the red goes to the grey cable (ignition 12v +)

Here you see the cables cut. And still the moron who connected the previous cable did route some new cables. The old stereo had permanently connected power. But the newer Pioneer would then always be illuminated if I used that. So I had fix that.

Well finally everything work like it should. Pioneer stereo with USB in the Toyota Starlet..

Luxuries on the Starlet

Found this Starlet Picture on the Internet. Seems to be able to adjust the seat with some kind of wheel.

My car does not have this wheel on the driver seat.. :-(

BBS RK on my Starlet EP91?

I wonder if this BBS RK 4x100 with ET35 will fit my Starlet EP91 without touching? Tires are 195/45/16.

Anybody know?

Do you think they will look okay on the Starlet?

Advertisement on Blocket, a swedish "for sale" site.

Video, Socks Starlet Glanza with much power!

Fast Toyota Starlet Glanza V with GT30, 376 HP in a 1.3 liter engine :) Fast!!





And here when a Ferrari gets it.. (Starlet Glanza V vs Ferrari F355 Spider )




Read more about his car here: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/27821-socks-white-glanza-v/

Some Nice Alloy Wheels for the Starlet?

What kind of wheels will fit. I have done some research, but not tried it my self.

Starlet EP91 is 4x100 ET38
(4x100 PCD )
Mentioned in Owners Manual: 145/80R13 and 165/70R13
145SR13 4x13 ET39
155/80 R13 5x13 ET39
155SR13 5x13 ET39
165/70 R13 5x13 ET39
185/55 R14 5.5x14 ET39

Diameters: 13'' - 14''
Width (mm): 155 - 185
Tire aspect ratio (%): 55 - 80
Smallest tire size: 155/80 R13
Largest tire size: 185/55 R14

Bolt pattern 4x100
Diameter: 13'' - 14'';
Width (inches): 5 - 5.5;
Offset (mm): 39.


All these keep the turning diameter within +/- 2% of std

205/50 14
195/55 14
185/50 15
195/45 15
205/45 15
195/40 16

Std Hubs
4 x 100mm pcd
Centre Bore 54.1mm
Offset 35-39mm
Thread 12x1.5mm



 I know its no more than 38mm and no less than 35mm. All yaris wheels will go straight on, as will wheels from corollas etc. Most after market rims shud fit with 4x100 PCD and 35/38 mm offset.

According to a source on the Internet: The recommended offset for Starlet is 35-42

That is if you dont want to hit the wheel archers. It also of course depends on wheel size and tires. But I think you will be safe going 15" at least. Dont know about 16".

+35 on a 6.5in wide would sit nice with plenty of clearance.

+38 with a 7in wide.

Anymore and it sits to far in and looks funny

If you can get the 17x7 +38 in 4x100 then happy days ! However the rear might scrub when you get fatties in the back.
Hey just for informations sake, i have 225/35 18s on my ep91. i get no scrub in the back, and alittle scrub on full lock in the front.

Stock is 165/70R13 (13x5.5) I believe (correct me if I'm wrong).

Anything wider than 7" will stick out from the factory guards.

Nice rims

Rota GT3, Picture from: http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?p=3238756

ROTA GT3 16 Inch 7J 4X100 ET40 Royal White
The Rota GT3 are Gab Sports replica Wheels, Drag DR 16 looks pretty much alike.

Gab Sports 16x7 4x100, picture from: http://forums.nwp4life.com/zerothread?cmd=print&id=38675

Other rims I like

White Rota Fighter
Diffrent version exist, but this is a nice one: http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=316013
ROTA Circuit 8 16 Inch 7J 4X100/114.3 ET40 Royal White

Konig Forward Wheels 15X6.5 4X100 ET38 White/Pink Stripe

TD Monza RS Wht/Blu

Ultraleggera OZ with Toyo Proxes T1-R 195/40-16, I think ET37.

Picture from: http://citybugs.se/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4&start=90

mGustaafssoN wheels on a Lupo

Rims: Rota RB Gunmetal 15x8" et30 

Tires: Nankang AS1 165/45-15

Spacer: fram 8mm Bak 10mm

Picture from: http://www.garaget.org/?car=307761&image=2914557

Picture from: http://www.garaget.org/?car=307761&image=3132843

Also in white

Rota RB 15x8 ET30 in white

Some treads about low ET and wide rims: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/60267-some-tips-for-the-people-who-are-going-for-low-offset-rims-ep91/

http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/60381-will-15-x-8-et-30-fit-on-my-glanza/

"+25 seems to be the perfect offset for an 8" rim." (Starlet EP82)
http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/18556-15x8-0-on-ep82/

"Ive got rota cup's 16x8j et35 with 195/45 and arches needed rolling"

"I got some 8x15 compomotives et32 with 185/50-15 tires. Lookes great, no spacing and no rubbing after I rolled the arches back some." - ErikG

8x15 compomotives et32 with 185/50-15 tires
Picture from: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?42215-15x8-rims-will-they-fit-problem-free/page2

The correct size for Starlet is 38-40, so 35 will be sticking out a tiny bit.

Rotas on a Starlet- Picture from:
http://106owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?233196-Dans-Starlet-Roof-Wrap
"15x8 with ET0, the spokes were literally against the caliper carrier, and the rears would scrub like hell without arch work" - Dan_1.1

Wheels Avid01 15x8 ET 25 all arround
Tyres Nankang 185/55/15BC coilovers
Picture from: http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Toyota-Starlet-1997/SSE-AD-2554510/

"low offset wheels are a night mare mine eats wheel bearings, bottom ball joints et" - http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/40293-i-want-hellaflush/

15x8" rota rb`s 4x100 et30 ideal for e30`s mx5`s civics

Picture from: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/wheels-tyres-sale-private-sales/163124-15x8-rota-rb-s-4x100-et20-ideal-e30-s-mx5-s-civics-etc-300-a.html

Nice on this golf: nexxen 195 45 on rota rb 15x8 et35

Picture from http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4608479

Rays volk racing gr-n +43 4x100 15x7

Pictures from: http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2909891

Rays volk racing gr-n +43 4x100 15x7

I have always liked Azev, here type A on a BMW E30

Picture from: http://www.freshfix.net/meet/the-big-meet-2012-pt-1.html

Rota Fighter 16x7, et40, spacers 20mm is included.

Rota fighter 16" x 7tum. 4x100 et 40.
20mm spacers. The wheels are ns2 165/65/16  ( stretch! )
I guess ET40 will work? I could go without the spacers, but it might perhaps work to use the spacers with this narrow tires?
Spacers are 4x100 with 57,1mm hub adapted for the Rota rims. I guess 57,1 mm will work on a EP91?

Toyota Starlet with a sun roof

Check this out:

I have never seen this sunroof on a Starlet before. Must be nice in the summer..

Toyota Starlet P9, EP91 with a sunroof

Source: http://www.autoscout24.at/Details.aspx?id=241088502&asrc=st

Corolla manifold on a Starlet EP91, more hp

The easiest way to get more power is to get 4efte, and replace all togehter. But here in Sweden there are no turbo Starlets... so cant find any.

This post is a bit messy, I am trying go gather facts and opinons about the diffrent engines, so bear with me... :)

Inlet manifolds from the following cars should fit on a naturated aspired 4efe.
4efte, 5efe, 5efhe, 4efe

Three versions of th 4efe has been made:

First generation 4E-FE

"The first generation of 4E engines found in the Starlet GI, Soleil and Corolla models were produced from 1989 until 1996. The engine found in these two models produces 88 bhp (66 kW) at 6,600 rpm and 86 lb·ft (117 N·m) at 5,200 rpm. This engine had more in common with the 4E-FTE, sharing the same throttle body, and slightly larger fuel injectors." - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_E_engine#First_generation_4E-FE

Second generation 4E-FE

"The 2nd Generation of the 4E-FE was introduced in 1996 producing less peak power: 74 bhp (55 kW) at 5,500 rpm, but with a slight increase in peak torque 87 lb·ft (118 N·m) at 4,400 rpm. The 2nd generation of the 4E-FE was essentially the same engine as the first but the intake and exhaust manifolds were changed along with a slight alteration of the ECU meant to reduce exhaust emissions."

Third generation 4E-FE

"In 1997 the intake manifold was changed again along with the ECU and the result was 85 bhp for the Corolla and 82 bhp for the Starlet. This engine was discontinued in 1999."

"4efte's can be bought cheap these days, if you have a EP91 NA and you find a Glanza V engine then it's really easy as the ECU is plug and play"

I think this Corolla intake manifold can be mounted on a Starlet EP91 4E-FE engine and can give some extra horsepower?

"4efe from a JDM starlet (starlet Gi or Glanza S) has bigger injectors, a different inlet manifold and a more aggressive ECU" - Dave

UK Spec 4EFE - 74bhp
JDM 4EFE - 100bhp

"The Glanza S has 85 hp"



I am trying to gather information about the diffrent versions of more power there are of 4EFE.



I think this versions is what most swedish corolla 1.3 1989 to 1996 with a 4efe has.

I think this engine is from an 4efe corolla?

Ralph1: "I need all the air intake plastic bits and vacumm lines etc?"

From what I've heard there are thicker rods in these engines, and stronger valve springs.

------------------  -------------

https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/94935-4efe-corolla-e11-tubular-inlet-manifold-into-na-ep91-starlet/

Thanks to FrozenJakalope for answering questions on ukstarletowners.com

1. The swap of the intake manifold between 2nd and 3rd Gen 4E-FE is just straight forward replacement - correct? (all the hoses, cables etc stay where they are? The existing bracket holding the inlet stays and fits ok?)

Yes to all of the above except the small hose that goes to the MAP sensor will be slightly too short. Think it's a 4mm silicone hose you need, can be got on eBay for less than £2 posted.

2. What is the inside diameter of that intake - will it fit my existing standard throttle body??? (is it 45mm?)

Exactly the same as the standard N/A throttle body, same sensors and size.

3. If I change the Mani only do I still get better airflow? Is it worth investing in 50mm throttle body and what car is it from? (do I have to port the mani then?)

Yes, the shape of the mani and smaller chamber is where you get the gains. It would be a massive ball ache to change the TB as well because of the sensors. I think the 4AFE TB is the best bet if you really want a 50mm one, but then you would need to port the inlet to get gains and they'd be minimal. Not worth the effort imo.

4. Do I have to change the ECU (after changing Mani only) or just overnight reset would do?

Your ECU will be fine, you don't even really NEED to reset it, it'll adjust itself within its own tolerances over a couple of days driving either way.

6. What is the most advantageous set up for this tubular inlet?

No different to not having the mani. This one is literally just an improvement, anything else you'd do to improve the car in your eyes will still improve the car. Bigger exhaust for better throttle response and so on will give the same gains.

7. After fitting this tubular inlet only - Is there anything I MUST do?

Make absolutely damn sure you've got the vac lines and coolant lines on the right way round. We've all done it at some point since the hoses are identical, but if you put them on backwards you'll pump coolant straight into the cylinders and best case is you have to sit there for 10 minutes while the engine sharts it all out of the exhaust. Worst case is you hydrolock it and pop a rod.

--------------------  -------------

From the Austrailian Starlet Club and thread: http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/16601-fitting-a-corolla-manni/

"I fitted one to mine and it all pretty much swapped straight over"

Picture from: http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?viewmode=compact&order=ASC&topic_id=45354&forum=1

This is the intake you want. Found in Glanza S or Corollas with 4e-fe engines."
Picture from: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/32388-lotties-sol/

tubular corolla or the 4efte inlets are the 1s to go for

Another picture of Corolla inlet manifold

Picture from: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/7411-getting-more-power-from-non-turbo-4efestarlet/

Picture from: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/7411-getting-more-power-from-non-turbo-4efestarlet/

Starlet 1998, picture from: http://jamaicaclassifiedonline.com/motor-vehicles/for-sale-1998-toyota-starlet-30.htm

Dont know if this will intake will fit

Toyota Corolla 93-97 SOHC 1.8L 7A-FE Engine

jezza323 (http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/9466-help-intake-info-for-a-4e-fe-ep91/page-3)

early 5efe manifold = 4efte manifold = 5efhe non ACIS manifold = early 4efe manifold

late 5efe manifold is basically the same as late 4efe manifold

and then there is a weirdo glanza 4efe tubular one

and the 5efhe ACIS one

tubular 4efe and late 5efe/4efe are good for torque, low rpm

all the rest are no good on a stock late 4efe because a stock late 4efe cant rev  

--- answer from Starlet_rich_uk ---

Don't know much about the differences between early and late moddels but heres my understanding

4efe(starlet)/5efe(paseo) = standard manifold (good torque)
4efe(glanza s)/Corrolla(ae111 euro) = Tubular = better peak power not so good for low down torque
4efte = Good for turbo with the shorter runner
5efhe ACIS = good all-rounder long and short runners (rare) 

 

Riko666 ( http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/7411-getting-more-power-from-non-turbo-4efestarlet/) gives this guidelines:

"in a naturally aspirated car there's only so much you can do...no idea how many times I've posted this but whatever, these are typical options:
- 5efhe Transplant (or just take the connecting rods, block, pistons, camshafts)
- Good Ignition System (Uprated Spark Plugs, Spark Plug wires, Coil)
- Proper Lubrication (Correct Oil, freer flowing Oil Filter)
- Uprated Radiator (plus coolant additives like Redline Water Wetter)
- Corolla Tubular/5efhe ACIS Manifold (port & polish it, extrude hone, ceramic coat...)
- Phenolic Intake Manifold Insulator Gasket
- 7/4AFE Throttlebody (port & polish it as well...)
- Heat-reflective Tape wrapped intake piping and freer flowing airfilter shielded from heat
- Tuned Tubular Exhaust Manifold (Ceramic Coated)
- Freer Flowing Tuned Diameter Exhaust System
- Decat/Freer Flowing Catalytic Converter
- 5efhe/Custom Camshafts
- Thinner Metal Headgaskets
- Lightened Ancillary/Crankshaft Pulleys
- Lightweight Flywheel
- Headwork (port & polish, extrude honing, x angle valve jobs...)
- Lightened & Uprated Valve train (lighter valves, spring retainers, stronger springs)
- Lightened Internals (Pistons, Connecting Rods, Crankshaft)
- Cylinder Boring (0.5 - 1.0mm overbore)
- Internal Friction Reduction (friction coatings & processes on internal components)
- Piggyback (eManage) or Standalone (Motec) ECU
- Individual Throttle Bodies"

--- ---
He mentions 5efhe ACIS Manifold also. I have to check up on that.




----

Xpect: "Well ECUs are obviously different. Injectors too but I don't know which exactly are to wich Gen. So I state what I know.

The Corolla EE101 (4EFE Gen1):
88ps in europe, due to better fuel up to 100ps in Japan
Inlet: bigger, same as FTE (in fact FTE is based on Gen1)
4-2-1 exhaust mani (in two parts, for adapting on a starlet welding and a flexpipe are required)

Starlet and Corolla EE100 (4EFE Gen2):
75ps
4-1 exhaust
Higher compression
Smaller inlet mani
Thinner and lighter conrods at same strength as Gen1

Corolla EE111 and Glanza S (4EFE Gen3):
86ps (also up to 100 in Japan afaik)
Tubular inlet
Apart from that, ECU and injectors afaik same as Gen2 (Starlet 4E)
Some have different ignition setup
The Glanza S engine has a different fuel rail with higher pressure"
source: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/75098-100bhp/

rmsnoel:
"Put a 50mm throttlebody off a 4afe corolla on a tubular manifold. It matches up right and the throttle sensor is a sensor.

Our uk gen2 is a more refined version of the gen1. The gen1 92-93 had 88ps with a up n down torque curve and 6500rev limit, the jdm had a higher limit hence 100ps. The gen1 used a 50mm tb and fte type manifold and the 4_2_1 ex manifold. It also had slighty more lift, slighty. The injectors were average squirty things and it had normal fuel pressure.

The gen2, our uk engine has 45mm throttlebody, longer AND narrower inlet runners and slightly, slighty less lift on the inlet cam. I believe to improve torque over the whole range. Bhp is also 10hp higher over the range until we hit our lower 6500rpm limit. The exhaust is a 4_1 type, its alot cheaper to make than the 4_2_1 but theres no evidence that it is better or worse than the gen1.

The gen2 also has a better type of injector- more missy spray than squirty squirty. It has a throttle sensor for more accurate tuning for mpg than the basic on off switch on the gen1 and fte. The idle control is on the tb instead of the manifold mounted gen1. It has 75bhp and is in the starlet and in corollas from 1993_1997 roughly

The bugeyed corolla is basically a gen2, although it has a tublar inlet manifold, this gives it 86bhp, same as when u put this manifold on your starlet! If you measure the runners they are bigger than all the other manifolds in diameter. If you measure all the demensions and get your little sister to do the maths like me youll see it uses some ram effect induction.

Then gen3 also has this tubular 86bhp inlet manifold. It is even more refined for emmisons and stuff than the uk gen2. It might have a 6800rpm limit. It uses coilpack ignition, a knock sensor and crankangle sensor to do its business. It has a 45mm throttlebody.

Georges Toyota Starlet from 1996

For about a week ago I got an email from George from Greece. He also has an Toyota Starlet, just like mine and had found this homepage. Just as I he likes these great nippy little cars!

I asked him if I could get some information and pictures of his Starlet to put here on the blog (and compare), and he was kind enough to provide me with some pictures and information. Thanks George!

Here are some information about the little reliable, unstoppable "The Beast":

"Some history and fun facts:
Originally bought in August 1996. First owner was the wife of one of my dads coworker. No crashes other than crashing the rear hatch by reversing (hence the glanza hatch door), mild usage until then, around 100k kms until around 2005.
My dad bought it then. Heavy usage, stuff like offroading, super long trips, massive abuse. more than 100000kms in 8 years.
Massive crash with a vintage Volvo estate around 2007, all doors replaced, car was jammed in the 2nd floor of a building, still no chassis or engine damage. Cost of repair around 700 euros.
I got my license in 2013 (Im 27, I just didnt get a license till then). Got it with 241000 kms. Replaced clutch kit (first time, was supposed to be changed at 100000kms). Added parking sensors, new radio and speakers, gearbox oil. Starter motor needed minor repairs at 255000kms, was supposed to be maintained at 100k too. Absolutely no unexpected problems or breakdows in 18 years.
Engine feels super responsive, fuel consumption is around 8 liters per 100km (heavy traffic, aggresive driving and much unneeded revving), consumption can get better if I calm down.
Brakes are good (completely different than newer models, drivers used to abs and electronic assists dont get along good with them), gearbox is precise and tight, I think it could be a little smoother. The non electronic throttle is really fun.
Drivers door has a different lock and key, due to someone trying to steal it, and braking the lock.
Im thinking of replacing it with an Alfa Romeo 147 (The most luxurious model with all options) or a Corolla T Sport, but I might also keep it, Im not on a tight budget but its a super reliable and practical everyday car, that costs nothing to maintain.

5 door version in 040 White. It is the version with a few more HP, before the european union "strangled" the ECU in order to achieve lower emissions.
Its the simplest possible configuration sold here, manual transmission, no ABS, no electric windows, no power steering, not even the clock on the dashboard. Super light too, I think less than 800kg.
With 255000kms on the odometer, the motor works so great it still outperforms almost anything on the regular, cheap 1.4L subcompact class.
There isnt a single door with the same serial number, since my dad crashed it and managed to get it stuck to the 2nd floor of an apartment complex. Still, no chassis damage, everything replaced and works perfectly to this day.
Anyway, I just wanted to share that I also own one and love it, because most people here dont give a crap about those cars, they say "it will never break down, so theres no reason to care for it, dont service it, ignore rust, rattling plastics etc"."

A bit worn :)

No watch, who needs one? Mine has one.

254402 km

airbag information

Toyota hub, not the same as on my car. I don't have that plastic cup, and the rims on mine is black and I think the holes are round.

George has added back sensors. I guess they come handy sometimes.

Lacks the little rubber for the board cut. George also has rear speaker that my car lacks.

Noise reduction from rattles I guess?

Rear hatch from an Starlet Glanza (turbo). Nice and sporty!

Brakelight, same as my car.

Very fresh, no rust on the cooler  "handles" as in mine.

More power than in my Starlet, this Starlet is not strangled. Dont know what is the diffrent. Perhaps intake and ECU.

Serialnumber and so on.

A stick about engine. I also have this in my car.

Oouch.

Not a single door with the same serialnumber, it has had a tuff life this little car :)

A hard life, but still runs without problems. Toyota Starlet Reliability!!

The Volvo did this?

Hmm. It does not rain so often in Greece, right? :)

I think it is the same in my car

Rear hatch and tankfillerpad

Cam belt replaced 2009. I still have the original in mine, but it is inspected.

This I do not have in my car, I guess it is the AC-compressor or?

Left Engine mount

Oilfilter

Here we have the Dash Dimmer, adjusting the instrument light. I think I have this also, but have to check.

Front lights height adjuster. The other I think is a fog light? 
There is no fog light, there was on the original hatch door, but now the hatch door has been change to a  glanza one. Got a message from George: "actually have  a fog light on the glanza hatch. Its on the same position the reverse light is on the right, but on the left and red. Also got some amazing mileage on out of town roads, 700km with around 45 liters!"
I think I have this in my car also, Will check when it gets warmer.

Well that is it. Thank you George for your contribution! I hope George keep us updated about what happens to his Toyota Starlet.