Front left wheelhouse

Today I continued with the left (driver) wheelhouse. Here are some pictures!

The brake pad looks fresh.

Anti Rust product applied on front of bonett

Setting TDC on Toyota Starlet EP91, and cam belt inspection. Wheel house also painted

Today I bought some more rust protective product and some tools. I was planning on replacing the cam belt. But found no fault on the current cam belt. Follow the pictures.

I also checked TDC. Thas is when cylinder 1 piston is as far up as it can come.

Here the mark is aligned at top dead center TDC and is on zero degree. Then you check that the "4E" is aligned with the little mark, see below. Turn the crankcase with transmission in neutral clockwise. The crankshaft wheel turn about twice as fast as the camshaft wheel. I Think the 5E mark on the camshaft is for another Toyota engine.

The TDC mark can be seen trough the little hole below "4E". When this mark is like this and the crankshaft pulley is on 0 degree the first pistion (right next to this camshaft is in TDC Top Dead Center.

Here we are post the TDC. Look at the position of the crankshaft pulley down below.

This is how the crankshaft pulley looks like, post TDC. This picture is taken right after the post camshaft TDC above.

The cambelt looks good. I turned the crankshaft pulley 2 laps and checked the belt. Did not find any fault. So I will keep this one for a year or two.

I also have cleaned and painted the front right wheelhouse. I have also removed the undershield splash protector to spray anti rust products. I also needed to remove the under cover to get to the crankshaft pulley.

Brake pads, looks fresh, you can see the mark, that alot is left.

Shock absorber right front of the Toyota Starlet EP91, year 1997.

Brake disc. 1702 holding the brake pad.

Removing right bottom cover on Starlet

Removing right bottom cover ( right-hand engine undershield, splash guard ). 2 bolts and 2 nuts holding the plastic cover. Inspection of rust and spraying rust preventive products..

Bottom cover still in place

Bottom cover removed, the crank pulley (?) can be seen

Rust.. Sprayed it with Biltema Rostskyddsmedel för hålrum.

Tjänstevikten i Transportstyrelsens register stämmer ej

Tjänstevikten i Transportstyrelsens register stämmer tyvärr ej. Jag blev förvånad när jag såg vad min Toyota Starlet med ingen extrautrustning påstods väga. Bilen saknar air-condition, saknar servo, saknar elhissar och annat lulllull.

Tittar man runt på Internet börjar tjänstevikten (Curb Weight) på 840 kg och turbovarianten (ej min bil) väger en bit över 900 kg med vätskor ifyllda (tjänstevikt).

I Transportstyrelsens register påstår dom att min bil väger 1020 kg. Och det är denna vikt som är underlaget för bilskatt. Det skiljer alltså över 150 kg.

När jag frågar Transportstyrelsen påstår dom att mitt fordon (Toyota Starlet 1997) är filregistrerat och att de saknar underlag för att kontrollera de tekniska uppgifterna. Vidare vill dom att jag ska kontakta generalagenten Toyota (vilket jag har gjort).

Jag återkommer när jag får något svar.

Tjänstevikten stämmer ej. Toyota gett felaktiga siffror till Transportstyrelsen?

4E-FE Interference or Non Interferance?

The Toyota manuals that I have seen says that this is an Interferance engine (4E-FE).

However, lots of people on the Internet claims that it is an Non Interferance Engine. That means that the valves will not hit if the cam belt is broken.

This is some opinions found in a forum from Ireland, namely the motor category http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=47 :

Reliable: Best built cars in the world?

This image is a screenshot from a Toyota site in Ireland.

Screenshot from: http://www.toyota.ie/about/best-built-cars/

Some comments from the Irelish forum "www.boards.ie"

Captainspeed (http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=76027691)

“The prefacelift version of the 98-02 Corolla is one of the most reliable cars ever made without a shadow of a doubt, those 4E-FE engines were slow but they just kept going and going and going, the post facelift 4ZZ-FE VVTi on the other hand was a bit of a disaster with the burning oil and the soft gearboxes! The radios in the post facelifts were renowned for failing completely at random too!”

The 4e-fe engine is about as reliable as engines come and they are very easy cars to drive.

“In fairness Jap cars from the 90s were near on indestructible, modern Toyotas are nothing special for reliability, as we know but of course most people still (stupidly) think that nothing beats a Toyota for reliability.”

MCMLXXV (http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056485236):

“A late 90's or early 00's Toyota is probably your best bet OP.”

Toyota from the nineties: when cars didn't have any electronics to go wrong

16-06-2013, 00:32	#24
JohnBoy26 (http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=85098200)

“A late 90's 1.3 Corolla with the unbreakable 4e-fe engine is what I recommend. If buying aim for a 99 model as they are a much better spec'd car than the 97-98 models and have abs as standard which is a bonus.

They are a very easy car to drive also with a nice light clutch and a very smooth gear change and all controls are well laid out and are easy to reach. Also build quality is top notch in these and reliability is second to none.”

02-05-2013, 23:02	#13
00833827

(http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=84437378)

“The mid-90's Toyotas (corolla, carina e, starlet) are modern Irish Classics in my opinion. They fit the criteria of many Irish Motorists, reliability being the main one. They sold so many of them that even today, going on for 20 years later they are still a common sight on the roads and parts are everywhere. If you are going the bangeronomics route for any length of time, and have a commute to do, you could do a lot worse, fuel consumption even on the petrol's is decent. Thats why they get recommended here so often I reckon.”

16-12-2011, 00:02	#23
Row

Gives this good comment (http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=76027691):

“Saying that most of the modern cars today are'nt as reliable as the older makes/models of the 90's..
Most modern Diesels have.....
1)Dual mass flywheels that can fail around 100k mls.
2)Diesel particle (particulate) filters that may need replacment around 100k mls
3)electric egr valves that can't be bypassed without bringing on and eml.
(except for engine ecu remap)
4)abs sensors..turbo control sensors..turbo pressure sensors..mass airflow sensors..crank/cam sensors...dpf diff sensors..dpf upstream/downstream temp sensors..common rail high pressure sensors..etc..etc that can fail at some stage.

Now that most of the modern cars are gone to start/stop there is futher chance of problems in the future...

E.g.
Was talking to an Opel/Vauxhall tec a few months ago who was after sitting a training course and he informed me that Opel/Vauxhall have introduced pressure sensors builtin to there glow plugs on the 1.7 td that optimises the combustion process within there diesel engines at the correct time.....These glow plugs sell for around £200 a pop...

The mad thing is nearly all of the above improvements changes in modern diesels are related to lowering emissions....As i have said before these maybe reducing a hole in the ozone layer but there putting a hell of a hole in our pockets...”

08-02-2013, 21:16	#7953
JohnBoy26 (http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=83124112)

"An e11 corolla has a diffrent fuel injection system to a starlet of the same era. So even though the starlet is lighter and has the same 4e-fe engine, it's still not as effecient as the corolla for the above reason."

I am of the same opinion as JohnBoy26. This comment is from: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056918970&page=4

BX_19:
"Toyota Starlet with the brilliant 1.3 4e-fe engine. Quite a powerful little engine in a car that weighs less then 800kg means it can move when it needs too.

Ridiculously reliable because there so simple, puts many other cars to shame"

Toyota Starlet forum comment from: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=70357704

 05-04-2013, 12:29  (http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=83994602 )      #12

JohnBoy26
  
“The cars Toyota made in the late 90's were dull no doubt but that's where the critisism ended because their quality and reliabilty was unmatched by no other manufacturer, they were queit simply brilliantly put together cars and were very nice mechanically.

Their quality however started dropping in the early 00's imo and continues to drop to this present day.”

----------   -------


Starlet EP91:

Kerb Weight
840kg - 860 kg depending on model

Tow Weight
800kg

Right wheelhouse, inspection (My Starlet).

Right wheelhouse, inspection. I am applying kallpressad linolja and roskskyddsmedel för hålrum. Everything from Biltema.

The brake disc seems to have been change. The under cover must be removed when changing the cam belt (I think).

Lots of surface rust...

The damask is not broken. Good rubber.

Shock absorber front right of the car.

Starlet on parking lot where I live

I found this nice Toyota Starlet (1997) near where I live. Looked to be in good contition. Only 3 owner so far.

The same year as my Toyota Starlet, but blue.

3 doors and everything looks original.

Cam belt Camskills VS Mekonomen (Starlet)

Comparing prices.. In Sweden, unfortunatly parts for Toyota are very expensive. I am thinking of ordering a cam belt and tensioner from abroad instead, from United Kingdom. Camskills has better prices then the Swedish Mekonomen. Dont know about the quality though.

About 46 Euro from Camskills: http://www.camskill.co.uk/m19b0s1302p4211/Toyota_Starlet_Turbo_%5BEP82_EP91%5D_-_Parts_Spares_Tuning_Servicing_Accessories_-_Cambelt_Kit_-_Starlet_EP82_EP91_Glanza_Turbo_Models

Or 1466 Swedish Crones (about 130 euro, give or take) Mekonomen price.

Here is a guide to replace the cam belt (havent tried it yet though):
http://www.tunemytoyota.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3783

My Toyota Starlet Story and History

Back in the days I had a small KP61 Starlet from year 1984. I did not have any problem with it. Did however change the brake disc, but I think that’s it. I really liked the rear wheel drive and the simplicity of the car. Unfortunately my KP61 was very rusty and the car did not like to be driven on lead free 95 octane fuel (I think the valves didn’t like it). Other memories are that I slept over in the car one time (sitting in the front seat) and it was not comfortable. I only had the car for about 2 years before trading it in for a Volkswagen Polo (which was not as reliable…). The shock absorbers of the Starlet were also worn out. They froze during the winter and it was not nice to ride the car with shock absorbers who did not work!

Why not get another one (KP61)?

Being in a crash in this car would not be safe. Very poor impact stability. And therefore not suitable for an every day cruise car.

However,  ever since then I have had a soft spot for the Toyota Starlet. And I almost bought a KP61 again, but was not fast enough, so it got sold before I got my hands on it.

This summer I bough a 1997 (EP91 or P9) Starlet with about 7364 Swedish miles (73640 km). (very little!)

The EP91 model is one of the best of the Starlet series as it has manual everything with no nasty electric windows (one is broken in my other car: Kia Pride), no steering wheel servo or air conditioning to go wrong, and it has pretty low weight. My 3-door model is sign of simplicity. And I prefer simplicity. No hand-controlled windows in the back seat. No rev-counter. It is Just a simple car, perfect. Simplicity is genius. Why complicate things?. The car has only two front speakers. The boot is bigger than on my Kia Pride. And when folding the rear seat the boot/trunk get completely flat. The Kia chair can be folded a bit more, but you cannot have it all.. (I guess).

It does however have 5 gear transmission and a nice reliable engine (4E-FE), 16 valve and a Cam belt (I would however preferred a cam chain..).

The car I well known to have genuine Toyota quality (at the top?) and has a rumor of being outstandingly reliable.

The Car creates the impression of being built like a small tank – admittedly a lightweight one with a good bit of speed.

The instrumentation is a bit Spartan, having no rev counter. The interior is finished in a hard wearing grey cloth, but looks clean. The speed velocity is very simple with green backlight. The glove compartment is bigger than in the Kia Pride.

The transmission is distinct and the clutch I think is hydraulic, picking points in my heart.

Tinting the rear windows.. (Starlet)

Tinting the rear windows..

Products usefull for tinting the windows. ( Tona sidorutorna med Bilteamas Solfilm )

Trying to tint the back window. I did not manage. If not perfect it will have to do without.

Tinting the window on the rear back went fine.

Rostskyddsmassa sprayas vid bakre hjulhuskant. Left side.

Rust preventive product applied after serious cleaing. Here the right side.